Pruning plants is a garden task that worries many gardeners as it can seem bewildering and confusing. Many are also concerned that pruning at the wrong time or in the wrong way may harm plants or could even kill them. In most cases, plants recover even from a bad pruning job, but here are some very simple tips to help you overcome your fear of pruning and get your plants growing well.

12 top tips on how to prune flowering plants

Pruning Tip 1: Prune after flowering has finished

Basically, if you prune after flowering you can’t go wrong. That is, unless you have a fruiting plant - in which case, prune after harvest as flowers produce fruit.

Pruning Tip 2: Deadhead regularly

As well as doing an all over prune after flowering, regularly deadheading (the term for removing spent flowers) keeps plants compact, tidy and often brings repeat flowering plants such as annuals and perennials as well as long-flowering shrubs back into bloom. Deadheading is a light prune - think of it as picking a bunch of flowers. On smaller plants it can even be done with your hands, pinching and twisting off spent blooms.

Deadheading is an important part of ongoing plant care and maintenance.

Pruning Tip 3: Cut above a node

Most pruning is done to encourage new growth and flowers. Cutting just above a node (the point on the stem where new growth arises) encourages growth. To encourage an open plant, cut to an outward-facing node.

Pruning Tip 4: Prune to shape and size

As well as pruning to remove old flowers and to encourage new growth, pruning can enhance the shape of a plant, keep it within the bounds of the garden or within its allotted space in the garden. If you have a productive tree, it may also be necessary to prune it to keep the tree low enough to net and harvest.

Pruning tip 5: Prune off dead growth

At any time of the year, prune away dead or damaged growth. Cut the problem growth off above a node so fresh growth can emerge or cut the dead part flush with a living stem. Badly diseased or pest-affected growth can also be removed (and put into the rubbish).

Dead growth takes up energy your plant could otherwise be putting into growing and flowering. Cut it off to help your plant!

Pruning Tip 6: Prune for plant renewal

Plants that die back in autumn or winter such as perennials can be cut back to ground level in winter to make way for new growth in spring. Plants that form a dense clump of growth can be reinvigorated by removing the oldest growth at the base to make way for new shoots. The oldest growth is usually thick and may have grey or dark brown bark setting it apart from young, vigorous growth. When pruning, take care if cutting hard into old wood – some plants can’t recover. If in doubt, prune a third of the plant, wait for new growth and then prune more.

Pruning Tip 7: Use clean, sharp pruning tools

Always use sharp blades and chose the right size tool for the pruning task. Secateurs are the most commonly used pruning tool, but for wood that’s thicker than the secateur blades can manage, use loppers or a pruning saw. To avoid spreading disease, sterilise pruning tools with antiseptic after use. You should also remove any sap by washing with soapy water before storing tools.

If the blades aren’t sharp and it is hard to cut into the wood you are trying to prune, sharpen the blades using the appropriate tool (such as a whetstone) or replace the blade entirely.

Clean, sharp pruning tools are vital for a good prune and a healthy plant.

Pruning Tip 8: Identify the branch you are pruning before you cut

Before cutting always check that you are cutting off the correct branch. You don't want to remove a main structural branch or stem in error. Trace back the branch to see where it has grown from on the plant.

Pruning Tip 9: Use caution when pruning grafted plants

Where a plant is grafted onto understock or rootstock, always ensure that you prune above the graft. To identify the graft area, which is usually at the base or very low down on the plant, look for differently coloured bark or different thickness in growth. The exception to this rule is when the understock or rootstock sends out shoots (known as suckers). These can be removed.

Plants that are often grafted include roses, fruit trees, standards and some native plants.

Pruning Tip 10: Don’t remove pollinating branches on multi-grafted fruit trees

Pruning a plant that’s grafted with several varieties, such as a fruit tree? Carefully identify the pollinating branch or branches before starting any pruning on the tree. If you remove your pollinating branches, you'll find yourself without fruit.

It's always good to trace your growth back to its origin before you prune, to make sure you're not cutting off a graft or a pollinating branch.

Pruning Tip 11: Consider the weather

As pruning encourages new growth, consider the weather conditions that may affect the plant after pruning. New growth may be damaged by frost or heat, so avoid pruning frost-sensitive plants in winter, and also avoid heavy pruning in the heat of summer. As pruning encourages new growth, always nurture heavily pruned plants as they regrow with regular water and fertiliser. Don't forget to choose the right fertiliser for your plants - click here for more info.

Pruning Tip 12: Seek advice before heavy pruning

If in doubt, contact an expert before tackling a large pruning job such as a tree! The friendly horticulturalists at your local Flower Power Garden Centre can always offer sound advice. If you'd like to get an expert in to do the job for you, Flower Power also offers professional tree services - click here to enquire.